Jonathan Anderson, the artistic director of Loewe, has more ideas. On July 2, to present the new collection of his own brand, JW Anderson, he revealed a box containing collection visuals and pieces of fabric. A few days later, an even more successful version, massive, covered with fabric and stamped with the logo of the Spanish house, arrived on the offices of the press. Inside, a letter signed by the designer, the looks of the collection, cardboard glasses that it was possible to try on, and even a manual record player on which to play the soundtrack of the "show".
“Whether it was for J.W Anderson or Loewe, I worked from home, talking to my team every day, starting at 7 a.m. I got to know my team much better than I had been able to until then. This collection is filled with emotion. It touches me because it makes it possible to understand, more than ever, that we work with human beings. Some of these pieces were made at home, others in workshops around the world.” The designer draws his inspiration from the art of Velázquez and El Greco, from that of Paul Cadmus (one of whose paintings is applied, in jacquard, to a sweater) but also from the know-how of Loewe employees, such as with this impressive sleeveless top, made of leather, like a basket. “An ancestral technique, which can also be incredibly contemporary. In the same vein, a leather jacket can turn into a bag. The volumes are generous, transcending the two-dimensional presentation inherent in the absence of fashion shows, as on this trench coat with cape sleeves meeting in the back, or this top with balloon sleeves. “There is something sculptural. We took a technique, an idea, and pushed it into a look,” explains Anderson.
“With the parade in a box, the public can appreciate the collection at their own pace, get involved. I like parades, but time zones are a problem, and it is difficult to speak directly to your audience, ”explains the Irishman, reached by Zoom this Sunday. A Sunday that he hosted with 24 hours of content broadcast on the brand's website and on Instagram. Several Anderson collaborators were invited to add their stone to the building: Adam Bainbridge, musician known under the name of Kindness, to tell the musical concept behind the presentation, Shin Tanaka, to show how to use paper to reproduce a piece of the collection. Throughout the day, Loewe therefore offered an interactive experience where the public could, wherever they were, live with the collection.
Even make it your own, like when, in the evening, you could learn how to reproduce one of the looks from the collection at home, using a pattern to download online. “Fashion needs to free itself, to be more human. When you make something, you realize its value. Making a top doesn't take 10 minutes, it's a work of art," enthuses Jonathan Anderson, who, faced with the popularity on TikTok of one of his J.W Anderson cardigans, had recently posted his design online. to help its followers reproduce it. “A lot of what we've learned during this time will feed into future shows when things get back to normal,” Anderson predicts, “but I don't feel ready yet. I like this idea of releasing something when it's ready, without being bound by the schedule. Fashion must explain better, open up to the public, be more authentic. I believe that if a brand lacks authenticity right now, it is very likely not to survive. »
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