Show - Hermès - Ready-to-wear Fall-winter 2014-2015<

After Miu Miu and her comic strip shebam, pow, blop, wizz that impress the retina, the sensual, almost orientalist painting, in the palette of verdigris, kraft, granite and midnight blue, composed by Christophe Lemaire at Hermèsreposes the look. Everything is hushed, benevolent, against the current of the steamroller of fashion. “Hermès customers are not fashionistas, but individuals. Style is not a recipe to be applied”, argues the artistic director of the saddler's women's ready-to-wear. He says that the (true) wealth of Hermès lies in its absolute refusal to compromise on the quality of materials and in its quest for color matches. A long trucker sweater brushes a girl's thighs, the Clémence messenger bag in curry bull calf against her side. A maxi coat in yak felt (“a marvel woven in Mongolia using an artisanal technique like 3D”), a sheepskin coat with a silk scarf back protect the body and give women the confidence and comfort that too often luxury refuses them. The tension of this wardrobe operates through the alternation of trouser suits - oversized jackets worn over cargos in ginger wool gabardine or eggshell flannel with a very August Sander masculine chic - and remarkable archetypal dresses - crossed in stag liquorice, sleeveless in astrakhan, wrap-over in midnight blue moiré calfskin… The moccasins heel the sandals (signed Pierre Hardy) threaded on thick socks. The Hermès red crocodile camisoles revealing the backs, the jackets next to the skin, the crossed skirts in tobacco croco-chiffon licking the calves reveal a subtle, magnetic seduction, without demonstration.

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