Dolce & Gabbana celebrates its return to the catwalks with great fanfare<

By Matthieu Morge Zucconi Posted, Updated

In a setting reminiscent of the illuminated cathedrals of southern Italy, the Milanese label puts on a show with a spectacular collection.

Every summer, from the first weekend of July, in Salento, the heel of the Boot, craftsmen set up monumental light sculptures that illuminate cathedrals, village squares and roads in color. With a little advance and a little further north, the handpicked guests of the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show were able to discover the lighting, inspiration for the (physical) fashion show of the Milanese label, this Saturday.

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For this men's wardrobe for next summer, the two designers decline this tradition in a joyful and copiously ornamented wardrobe. Thus, impeccably cut dark suits with supple shoulders, but also knitted sweatshirts, jeans and poplin shirts are adorned with hundreds of colored crystals arranged in geometric shapes. Layered colored necklaces, elegant brooches and other details adorning the shoes complete this spectacular tribute to a custom that the two designers discovered when they were just children.

Also on the program, a nostalgic return to the spirit of the early 2000s. First through the music: "You See The Trouble With Me", by Black Legend, a duo of Italian DJs who have conquered the charts around the world with this epic house hit from the turn of the millennium. By the prints, then, like this T-shirt on which was simply written "2000 Fashion Moment". The ultra-washed and ripped jeans, worn with the underpants band (signed, of course) visible and a mesh top over a white tank top, seemed to come straight out of the brand's archives. Just like the minimalist swim briefs, available in crystal or monochrome versions, which are making a comeback after plentifully invading the brand's advertisements some fifteen years ago. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have, as often, perfectly grasped the spirit of the times: on TikTok and Instagram, Gen Z, who has worn down the codes of the 1990s, is now falling in love with those of the decade of 'after...

Finally, the last tribute is to their country. The two designers offer several silhouettes in the colors of the Italian flag - an ensemble between a boxer and a footballer, flocked with the number 10, a tricolor tracksuit on which a clear "Italia" is hand-embroidered, or even a simple white T-shirt on which is written "Made in Italy" and socks that could soon be all the rage with young transalpine...

Of course, Dolce & Gabbana does not make fashion for everyone, and it takes a good dose of self-confidence to take on most of the looks shown this Saturday at Metropol, the former cinema where the label has taken up residence. But the Italian label makes fashion with joy, spirit and enthusiasm. Far from the gloom that has sometimes invaded an industry damaged by the crisis, the two creators put on a show. And the public wants more.