• 19/02/2022
  • By binternet
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Show - Christian Dior - Ready-to-wear fall-winter 2018-2019<

“It all started with an art exhibition on May 68, in Rome, explains Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director, about her next winter for Dior. But also of this expression invented, in 1965, by Diana Vreeland (who, at the age of 60, had become the editor-in-chief of American Vogue, editor’s note): “Youthquake”. In fact, it was chosen by the Oxford dictionary as the word of the year for 2017." Its definition - "a significant cultural, political or social change resulting from the actions of youth" - resonates with the times, of #MeToo and the student march in Florida. "Vreeland said that she had two important moments in her life: the 1920s and the 1960s, because the new generation had changed everything, through music, the arts, fashion, the women's press." Vintage cuts from Elle, L'Officiel and Harper's Bazaar line the runway space at the Rodin Museum. Ironically, the photographs of this "paperweight", which disappears, immediately make the rounds of social networks...

On the catwalk, references to Dior's legacy and sixties fashion are evident, showcasing cross-stitch, embroidery and, more broadly, craftsmanship - another inspiration is Rozsika Parker's The Subversive Stitch, which analyzes the needlework of women, long reduced to a domestic art and which found its place in the feminist movements of the last century. The idea of ​​patchwork thus runs through the collection, through quilt jackets, formidable clogs, boyfriend jeans, dresses mixing tarot mysteries (again) and illustrations of the four elements, but also mixtures of flower prints. taken from the archives. The work of Marc Bohan (head of style at Dior from 1961 to 1989) is put to use. “In 1968, when Balenciaga was closing, Mr. Bohan opened the Miss Dior boutique for this new public, continues Maria Grazia Chiuri. I found one of his scarves printed "C'est non non non et non" which we took up on a large knit, associated with checked pants designed by Christian Dior himself. Patchwork is also how we reconstruct our memory, our history.” We also note the nod to John Galliano (1999-2011) whose unforgettable Saddle bag, taking up the profile of a horse saddle, is reinterpreted in a small format worn over the shoulder on the back. But if the designer shows an undeniable talent for accessories, these take precedence over the silhouette and the sometimes complicated styling which tends to constrain the look. When the spirit of 1968 was precisely to liberate the movement.

Helene William.