• 12/11/2022
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Everything you have to remember from the first parade of Pieter Mulier for Alaïa<

Fashion Week
The Belgian designer, who took over the torch from Alaïa in February 2021, has just unveiled his first winter-spring 2022 collection.

By Alexandre MarainEverything to remember from Pieter Mulier's first show for Alaïa All you need to remember from Pieter Mulier's first show for Alaïa

Four years after the death of the most atypical of French couturiers, who forged himself by surrounding himself with exceptional women at the he image of Louise de Vilmorin, or adopted daughters like Naomi Campbell, her legacy and her memory remain intact. It is to the Belgian designer Pieter Mulier, who we know for having been the right arm of Raf Simons for the eponymous brand of the latter, then during his passages at Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein, that now returns the honor to lead the Alaïa house.

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A tribute to Azzedine…

The whole fashion world was impatiently awaiting this first show by Pieter Mulier for Alaïa. A successful bet since his debut was hailed by the greatest in the industry, including Raf Simons, appointed co-creative director of Prada a few months ago, Pierpaolo Piccioli, artistic director of Valentino, and Farida Khelfa. Ode to Azzedine Alaïa who passed away on November 18, 2017, the Belgian designer chose to present his first fashion show near the house's headquarters, rue de Moussy. Forget the so-called “show notes”, where the inspirations of the fashion shows are written, usually delicately arranged on the seats of the guests. Instead, Pieter Mulier sent a letter to Monsieur Alaïa, as an ultimate tribute to his genius and his legendary style. A letter in which he made a point of expressing to the creator whom he considers not to have known enough “his most sincere respect and his recognition for his work”: “I tried to be faithful to your creative approach” explains- he, "I even tried to get into your mind...but it's impossible." And to conclude: “Your fashion had a heart and a rare intelligence – a combination of precision, modernity and poetry.”

… A new era for Alaïa

All you need to remember from Pieter Mulier's first show for Alaïa

For the silhouettes of his first show, Pieter Mulier revisited the signatures of Azzedine Alaïa, considered since his beginnings as the one who sculpts the body through his feminine and ultra-desirable creations - not surprising when we know that the couturier is is seen studying sculpture in his youth. From flowing dresses that hugged the body to widened belts to take the form of corsets, through pieces sublimated with fringes, feminized suits and laser-cut chainmail… The Belgian designer took up the challenge of appropriating the aesthetics of the Franco-Tunisian designer, but also to pay homage to him, while instilling throughout the collection his personal minimal aesthetic and in perfect harmony with the house. All in all, a successful fashion show, which won him the general ovation of the guests and the blessing of the greatest.

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