Fashion: la French connection, C'est bouillone! 1 / 3 the pioneers<

Editions M.R, AMI, Kitsuné … All these brands were launched by young people who wanted an urban Parisian style close to their own. Ten years later, they are installed, at least in appearance, on a permanent basis. But almost all of them have to face an essential problem: distribution. Retail is in crisis, consumers want more transparency, slow fashion is the new word in fashion.

This forces some houses to question their model. In the face of a difficult economic situation, multi-brand shops are losing speed, which weakens the economy of small labels. It is for this reason that Alexandre Maïsetti of Paris Commune has put his label on stand-by. "we're getting to the end of these wholesale shops and it's the claws that control their network through their own shops that get away with it," he explains. As long as you have a style with a strong personality. However, when you surf the sites, storytelling is very similar from one brand to another.

Will ecology allow them to differentiate themselves? These small labels are challenged on this ground by newcomers, such as Rue Begand, made in Troyes, or laines paysannes, who came from the Massif Central. A new guard ready to lift up the previous one … It's moving fast on the fashion planet!

French fashion, Pioneers:

Agnès b.The new labels will find it hard to believe … In the '80s and' 90s, we were pushing, trampling, every Saturday, street of the day. For a T-shirt, a shirt, a suit … Dressing Agnes B. Was statutory-culturally, not socially. Dressing Agnes B., it meant loving Jim Jarmusch's cinema and Nick Cave's music. In New York, the underground dressed Agnes B!

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— article-s.co.uk Mon Apr 02 05:17:39 +0000 2012

Still here!

This year, the legendary pressure cardigan is celebrating its 40th anniversary, and the lady with blond angel hair is still present, 100% owner of her house founded in 1974, thanks to her thoughtful and family management. She has never done advertising … And the Japanese market, where it has been one of the best-selling brands, has allowed it to earn a turnover of more than one billion euros in some years …. If her aura of clothing is not really what she was, it still persists, unlike other houses of that time …. Agnès B., these are also human values. Working for her is working with her, as a family. Committed, she defended the made in France first and foremost, even if, in order to maintain affordable prices, she does not manufacture all her collections in France. But this problem actually affects all brands …

A.P.C. he first established himself with his raw jeans designed for boys. Before-a year later-to conquer the girls by offering them clothes that broke with the extravagant style of the creators of the time. Since 1986, Jean Touitou rhymes with timeless and independence. He went to good school, starting at Kenzo, then Agnes B.

Fundamentally independent

He has built a real universe, as functional as it is elegant, and always of quality, never deviating from his path, cultivating sincere artistic friendships, especially with the music-we know his connection with Kanye West-which he put to use in capsules. This winter, A.P.C. is collaborating with the post-punk collective brain dead, based in Los Angeles. Above all, Jean Touitou is once again alone at Les Manettes: he had joined the Audacia investment fund in 2012 to support its development in the United States; he has just bought out the shares. A.P.C. has 73 own shops and 300 multi-brand outlets worldwide.

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