Chanel redefines luxury fabric with a haute couture parade with exquisite contrasts<

The decor.It was at the Grand Palais, the favorite place of Karl Lagerfeld.Or rather, the ephemeral version of the place, currently under construction, located on the other side of the Seine facing the Eiffel Tower.The space has been redesigned by Xavier Veilhan as an equestrian track full of geometric shapes with various sizes.The contemporary artist who had already worked with Chanel in 2005 here mixed his famous references in the 1920s and 1930s and a nod to the aesthetics of universal exhibitions.The horse theme announced by the decor has extended on the podium (covered with sand) with a spectacular opening of the parade by Charlotte Casiraghi, on horseback.Which was a surprise without really being one, Chanel having got into the habit of sending teasers before his parades, a sort of filmed appetizers which give a taste of what will be presented.For its Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2022 collection, La Maison de la rue Cambon had therefore put us on the track of this dreamlike entry with a set of short films, featuring Charlotte Casiraghi, ambassador of the house for a year, in a cavalierskilled.

Irise tweeds

The pace."These geometric forms made me want contrasts, great lightness and a lot of freshness: ethereal dresses that float as in suspension," explains Virginie Viard, artistic director of Chanel.Lots of ruffles, fringes, macramé, lively lace, iridescent tweeds, colorful jewelers buttons.On the series of first tailors, the famous house tweeds take the place of red thread, they are relaxed, reworked with opening onto the pants, revealing delicate, light and meticulous lace touches of lace.They lie on the jackets, are both relaxed and formal.The outfits are not spectacular, they reveal on the contrary a collection of an exquisite simplicity which implies, when we look more closely, a work on the material."The suspenders composed of a white braid embroidered with pearls or silver chains, bicolor mary-jane with inspired heels from the 1920s revisited via the 1980s, and finely geometric embroidery, as in echo in the decor," continues Virginie Viard.

On video, the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-summer 2022 parade

The Row Front.The singer Angèle, the actresses Carole Bouquet, Margot Robbie, Vanessa Paradis, Elsa Zylberstein, the model Caroline de Maigret, director Sofia Coppola, or even American star Pharrell Williams were in the front row.

The detail.The bride, in white, wore a blue bouquet in tribute to Gaspard Ulliel, died on January 19, 2022 in a ski accident.The actor has embodied since 2010 the blue male perfume of Chanel.